Garment Pattern Development Methods

PATTERN DEVELOPMENT

1. Pattern Making In sewing and fashion design, a pattern is an original garment from which other garments of a similar style are copied, or the paper or cardboard templates from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before cutting out and assembling (sometimes called paper patterns). Each piece usually has all the information needed for cutting out and making the garment. 2. Two methods used to develop the patterns for garment construction: 1.Constructing or drafting basic patterns. 2.Adjusting the commercial basic patterns. 3. Principles of Pattern Making A basic pattern set comprises of five things :the front, the back, bodice, skirt and sleeve. The original working pattern is always retained in its original shape and it is used as a basis of developing a variety of other patterns and shapes. Patterns can be manipulated and changed. 1.The slash and spread technique The original pattern is spread,slashed,cut and manipulated to form a new pattern or shape. It is then placed on another paper and retraced along the newly shaped lines. The lines are blended and the seam allowances, grain lines and necessary pattern information is added to complete the pattern. 2. The pivotal transfer technique This technique is more advanced and less time consuming. It involves the manipulation of the original working pattern into a new shape by pivoting, shifting and tracing instead of cutting. The working pattern is placed over the pattern paper and a push pin is inserted through the pivotal point which is most often the bust point or front dart. 4. Pattern Making Terminology The pattern plot-This refers to the act of placing the lines on traced copy of the working pattern. Pattern Manipulation-This means to alter the original pattern. The pattern maker uses slashing and spreading or pivoting of pattern sections. Design pattern-This comprises of the finished pattern inclusive of all the features related to the design.

5. Pivotal Point -This usually is the whole pattern drawn on either one half or one fourth of the original pattern. Seamless pattern -A pattern without any seams or hem allowances.The allowances are drawn directly on the fabric after the pattern has been traced. Blocks-The block is an outline of the shape of the body and is the starting point of garment construction. 6.Grain Line-The grainlineon the block pattern run parallel with centre front and centre back edges in the bodice and in case of sleeves or trousers straight down the middle. Landmarks-These are the designated points around the body that correspond with those on the form that are used for measuring the body sections when drafting and draping. 7. Dot Marking-A pencil mark indicating a specific point on the pattern. Pin Marking-This means placing pins through the form in a series . Tracing-The blending and straightening of the pencil lines,cross marks or dot marks for the purpose of drawing the correct seam lenghts. First Pattern-The original pattern developed for each design is called first pattern. 8. Production Pattern-A pattern set that has been test fit, corrected and perfected and comprises of all the pattern pieces. Pattern marker-A marker is a length of paper containing a copy of all pattern pieces to be cut at one time. All pattern symbols are clearly indicated on the pattern. Pattern Cutter-Using either computerized cutting machines or other cutting equipment, the pattern pieces are cut from the laid out fabric. 9. Pattern Symbols-Notches Illustrated as a straight line, squared in the form of pattern edge with a cross bar at the end, it is used to indicate seam allowance, centre line, ease and gathers, zipper placement,foldline,hemline etc. Punches/Circles-Small circles which are placed to indicate dart intake, dart curves, button holes,trimmings,pocket placement etc Slits-These are used to indicate placket insertions or to indicate inside corners.

Apparel Design Technical Pack (Tech Pack) Block Pattern CAD-Computer Aided Design Costing Design Details Design Samples Drafting a Pattern Flat Pattern Garment Cost Sheet Grading

Logistics Pattern Maker Pattern Specification Sheet Production Samples Prototype Retail Reverse Engineered Pattern SloperPattern Sourcing Tariffs Wholesale

Create a pattern for a garment or an apparel product. Consider the design details. Select the materials (fabrication and trims) Construct the sample (prototype) Fit, revise and finalize the sample Create an apparel technical design pack Prepare pattern for mass production

Designers begin by creating a2D or 3D pattern, utilizing one or more of the pattern making methods: Flat Drafting Reversed Engineered Draping Computer Generated

Flat Pattern- A pattern is created by using an existing foundation pattern known as a sloper or a block. Sloper (Home Sewing Industry term) or Block (Apparel Manufacturing Industry term) - custom fitted basic pattern based on individual or companies standard size measurements from which other patterns can be made.

Drafting a Pattern- Patterns are created by using measurements of an existing garment, an individual, or body form. Pattern is then drawn on paper utilizing the body measurements. Drafting a Pattern: You Tube Video Reverse Engineering a Pattern- Patterns are created by deconstructing an existing garment. It is taken apart, analyzed, and new pattern pieces are created.

Draping-A garment is created by molding, cutting, and pinning fabric on an individual or a dress form. It is the oldest method of pattern making. Computer Generated Patterns- Computer-aided design (CAD) software is used to produce patterns for textiles, apparel and other products. Image Source: www.lucianagrimaldi.com

Dress Styles: Sheath, Shift, A-line, Tent, Empire, or Lower waistline Other Dress Styles: Princess, Blouson, Shirtwaist, Coatdress, Asymmetrical, Jumper or Sundress Neckline Styles: Decollete , Jewel, Boat, Scoop, Cowl, Raised, Square, V, Off the Shoulder, Sweetheart, and Keyhole. Shirt Styles: Dress, Sport, Polo, Western, T-shirt, Tank, Fitted, Hawaiian, Tunic, Tuxedo, Camisole, and Henley Collar Styles: Shirt, Button Down, Sailor, Convertible, Peter Pan, Chelsea, Bertha, Mandarin, Band, Crewneck, Turtleneck, Shawl, Bow Tie, Stock , Jabot Sleeve Types: Set-in, Kimono, Raglan Set-In Sleeves Types: Bishop, Pleasant, Bell, Lantern, Cape, Shirt, Puff, Melon, Cowl, Roll-up, Leg-o-Mutton, Shirred, Juliette, and Two- Piece Tailored

Kimono Sleeve Types: With Gusset, Dolman, Batwing Raglan Sleeve Types: Raglan to center front, Raglan-Princess, and Saddle Sleeve Design Skirt Styles: Straight, A- line, Flared, Circular, Full, Pleated, Gathered, Dirndl, Gored, Umbrella, and Wrap Pant Styles: Tapered, Straight, Flared, Jean, Palazzo, Harem, Bermuda Shorts, and Short Shorts, Other Pant Styles Include: Gauchos, knickers, and Culottes Jacket Styles: Trench, Blazer, Fitted, Tuxedo, Cardigan, Parka, Poncho, Cape, Safari, Pea, Windbreaker, Norfolk, Chanel, Bolero, and Box Pockets- Patch, Inseam, Welt, Flap

Once a design is created and the pattern is engineered, the materials (fabrication and trims) are sourced. (Consider wholesale vs. retail when sourcing materials.) Other variables may include: labor, logistics, tariffs, shipping costs etc. Preliminary costing is completed to insure profitability. Costing Considerations- fabrics, trims, design details, and labor costs.

Sample garments (prototypes) are created by sample makers. Sample makers must be skilled in a variety of sewing construction techniques. They work closely to insure fit and design integrity. Fashion fabric is used to create a sample garment.

Use a mannequin or a live model to check the fit and styling of the sample garment. Revise garment fit until it is correct. Photo Source: gardnerstreetvintage.tumblr.com

The Apparel Design Technical (Tech) Packs are created after the sample garment has been finalized. Create Your Own Tech Pack- You Tube Video The tech packs are specific information about the design and should include the following: 1. Detailed flat sketch with front and back views. Should include topstitching, pocket and button placement, placement of contrast fabrications, hem and band widths, label placement etc.

2. Directions for any special fabric direction or matching. For example borders, napped fabric etc. 3. Any special seam allowances, decorative or standard topstitching, stitch length, thread type and color. 4. Include samples of fabrics and trims. Clearly indicate what is Self, Contrast, Trim, and Lining fabrics. 5. Measurement details. 6. Care Instructions for labeling 7. Color details and season information

Date- Designer- Season- Style #- Technical Sketch- include design and construction details Body Measurements Hardware and Trim Fabrication and Color Care Label Information Comments Swatch of Fabrics

Once a sample pattern has been approved for size, costing, availability of materials, and potential profit; it is used for production samples and samples for sales promotion. The approved pattern is graded into smaller and larger sizes usually by computer but can be done by hand. Final fabric selections and trims are ordered by suppliers.