Innovative NaDES Technology for Sustainable Ingredients by Arnie Esperance
"Discover NaDES Technology, a sustainable solution for high-performance ingredients, developed by Arnie Esperance, the Technical Director of the Personal Care Division. Learn about the background, history, and development of NaDES, defined as eutectic mixtures of natural molecules. Explore the use of NaDES in cosmetic development, including substance selection and the first active market launch in April 2017 with anti-aging benefits."
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Presentation Transcript
NaDES Technology Developing high-performance sustainable ingredients Arnie Esperance Technical Director Personal Care Division aesperance@gattefossecorp.com
GREEN AND BIO-BASED SOLVENTS Background and history of NaDES discovery 1990 2005 Ionic liquids Deep Eutectic Solvents 2007 NaDES discovered in plant cells 2000 Metabolomics Recently we discovered through metabolomics a novel type of solvents, which we called Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents (NaDES). They are formed by mixtures of sugars, amino acids, organic acids and bases in certain molar ratios, e.g. malic acid and choline like well known synthetic ionic liquids. Prof. R. Verpoorte Choi, Y. H.; van Spronsen, J.; Dai, Y.; Verberne, M.; Hollmann, F.; Arends, I. W. C. E., Witkamp, G.-J., Verpoorte, R., Plant Physiology, 156, pp. 1701-1705 (2011), Are natural deep eutectic solvents the missing link in understanding cellular metabolism and physiology? Dai, Y., Ph.D. Thesis, Institute of Biology, Leiden University, p. 193 (2013), Natural deep eutectic solvents and their application in natural product research and development. Dai, Y.; van Spronsen, J.; Witkamp, G. J.; Verpoorte, R.; Choi, Y. H., Analytica Chimica Acta, 766, pp. 61-68 (2013), Natural deep eutectic solvents as new potential media for green technology. 2
NADES DEFINED A NaDES is a eutectic mixture formed by a combination of natural molecules with specific molar ratio The particular ratio allows one to obtain a stable liquid, with a melting point which is below the melting point of each single component A eutectic mixture is characterized by a supramolecular structure based on strong inter- molecular H-bonding, and it can be considered as a single pure molecule 3
COSMETIC NADES DEVELOPMENT Substance selection Chemical classes Selected substances Butylene glycol 1,3-propanediol Glycols (diols) Cos t Fructose Glucose Sucrose Lactose Sugars Glycerin Xylitol Sorbitol Mannitol Maltitol Sugars alcohols (polyols) Amino acids glycine Betaine Organic bases Choline chloride 4
TURNING THEORY INTO REALITY First NaDES Active Market launch in April 2017 NaDES fructose/glycerin/water extract of Aesculus hippocastanum flowers Organic certified, according to Cosmos Ecocert, NPA, NSF Flavonol glycosides content guaranteed Industrial scale validated Safety file available Anti-aging active In vitro efficacy study: reconnection of dermis and epidermis through action on dermal epidermis junction Clinical trial: anti-wrinkle efficacy on the eye contour area o o o o o o o - - 5
NADES BENEFITS & PERSPECTIVES An exciting future! Through NaDES, we can Discover new efficacy from previously explored plants Organic Certificati on Original Compositi on Efficacy o Excellent Stability Easy to formulate Develop sustainable & environmentally friendly cosmetic actives o Gattefoss Good sensory profile Safe NaDES Create customer friendly INCI names o Extracts 6
Thank you Arnie Esperance Technical Director Personal Care Division aesperance@gattefossecorp.com +1 201 265 4800 Learn more about Gattefoss www.gattefosse.com Sign up for our monthly email newsletter bit.ly/gattefosse-enews
