Sewing Technology and Machinery in Fashion Design

M.Karthiga Asst professor Department costume Design and Fashion

Sewing Machineries- Classification of sewing machines, parts functions of single Needle machine, Double needle machine, over lock machine, bar tacking machine, button Hole making machine, button fixing machine, blind stitching Machine, fabric examining machine. Special attachments, care and maintenance, Common problems and remedies. UNIT -I

Sewing Technology is the study and application of techniques, tools, and machinery used in the creation of sewn products such as garments, upholstery, and industrial textiles. It focuses on processes like fabric cutting, stitching, and finishing, employing both manual methods and advanced automation. This technology is essential in industries like fashion, furniture, and technical textiles, enabling efficient and precise production. INTRODUCTION TO SEWING TECHNOLOGY

Sewing machines are essential tools in the textile and garment industries, designed to stitch fabric and materials efficiently and consistently. They come in various types, each tailored to specific tasks, from basic home use to industrial-scale production. A sewing machine is a device that uses thread to stitch fabric and other pliable materials together. Sewing machines were invented during the Industrial Revolution to reduce the amount of manual sewing done in clothing factories. They have since greatly increased the efficiency and productivity of the garment, fabric, and needle industries. Sewing Machineries

Sewing Machineries. Sewing machines are specialized machines designed for stitching fabric and other materials together. They play a crucial role in the textile and garment industry, as well as in various other applications where stitching is required. Here are some common types of sewing machines and their functionalities: 1. Mechanical Sewing Machines: - Basic machines with manual controls. - Suitable for simple stitching tasks. 2. Electronic Sewing Machines: - Include electronic components for added features. - May have computerized controls for stitch selection.

3. Computerized Sewing Machines: - Advanced machines with a computerized interface. - Offer a wide range of stitches and customizable settings. - Can be programmed for specific stitching patterns. 4. Industrial Sewing Machines: - Heavy-duty machines designed for high-volume production. - Used in factories for tasks like garment manufacturing, leatherwork, and more. 5. Overlock Sewing Machines (Serger Machines): - Used for finishing fabric edges. - Can trim excess seam allowance and encase the edge to prevent fraying.

6. Embroidery Machines: - Specifically designed for adding decorative stitching and patterns. - Can be manual, electronic, or computerized. 7. Quilting Machines: - Designed for quilting tasks and creating intricate patterns. - Often have a larger working space to accommodate quilting projects. 8. Walking Foot Sewing Machines: - Ideal for sewing multiple layers of fabric or thick materials. - The walking foot mechanism helps feed fabric evenly.

9. Blind Stitch Machines: 10. Buttonhole Machines: stitching. - Used for creating nearly invisible hems. - Commonly used in the production of garments. - Specifically designed for automated buttonhole - Found in both home and industrial sewing machines.

11. Coverstitch Machines: - Used for creating professional-looking hems on garments. - Commonly used in the sewing of knit fabrics. 12. Leather Sewing Machines: - Heavy-duty machines designed for sewing leather and other thick materials. - Feature powerful motors and sturdy construction. When choosing a sewing machine, consider the type of projects you'll be working on, your skill level, and any specific features you may need. Additionally, maintenance and proper use are essential for ensuring the longevity and efficiency of sewing machines.

The classification of sewing machines is based on their design, operation, and purpose. These classifications help identify the machine best suited for specific tasks in sewing, tailoring, and garment production. Definition A sewing machine classification refers to the systematic grouping of sewing machines based on their operational mechanism, functional capabilities, application area, and stitch types, enabling better selection and use for specific sewing tasks. Classification of sewing machines

Classification of sewing machines Sewing machines can be classified based on various criteria, including their functionality, usage, and design. Here are several common classifications: 1. Mechanical Sewing Machines: - Operated manually with mechanical controls. - Suitable for basic sewing tasks. 2. Electronic Sewing Machines: - Include electronic components for added features. - May have computerized controls for stitch selection and customization.

3. Computerized Sewing Machines: - Advanced machines with a computerized interface. - Offer a wide range of stitches and programmable settings. 4. Industrial Sewing Machines: - Designed for heavy-duty and high-volume production. - Used in factories for tasks like garment manufacturing, upholstery, and leatherwork. 5. Domestic Sewing Machines: - Intended for home use. - Come in various types, including mechanical, electronic, and computerized models.

6. Embroidery Machines: - Specifically designed for adding decorative stitching and patterns. - Can be standalone or combined with sewing functions. 7. Quilting Machines: - Designed for quilting tasks and creating intricate patterns. - Often have features like a wide working space and specialty quilting stitches. 8. Serger or Overlock Machines: - Used for finishing fabric edges by trimming and enclosing them. - Commonly used in garment construction.

9. Coverstitch Machines: - Specialized machines for creating professional-looking hems, especially on knit fabrics. 10. Walking Foot Machines: - Equipped with a walking foot mechanism to ensure even feeding of thick or multiple layers of fabric. 11. Buttonhole Machines: - Specifically designed for automated buttonhole stitching. - Can be standalone or integrated into other sewing machines.

12. Blind Stitch Machines: - Used for creating nearly invisible hems, commonly in garment production. 13. Leather Sewing Machines: - Heavy-duty machines designed for sewing leather and other thick materials. - Feature specialized components to handle tough materials. 14. Single Needle vs. Double Needle Machines: - Single needle machines have one needle for stitching, while double needle machines have two. - Double needle machines create parallel lines of stitching.

15. Free Arm vs. Flat Bed Machines: - Free arm machines have a removable section, allowing easier access to cylindrical or tubular items. - Flat bed machines have a flat sewing surface suitable for general sewing tasks. 16. Manual vs. Automatic Machines: - Manual machines require more hands-on control, while automatic machines offer features like automatic threading, cutting, and tension adjustment. Choosing the right type of sewing machine depends on your specific needs, the type of projects you plan to undertake, and your level of expertise.

A single-needle sewing machine is a standard machine used to produce straight stitches with a single thread from the top spool and a bobbin thread underneath. It is versatile and commonly used for garment construction and general sewing tasks. Parts and Their Functions 1. Needle Function: Pierces the fabric to carry the top thread through it, forming stitches. 2. Presser Foot Function: Holds the fabric firmly in place during stitching to ensure accurate and even sewing. 3. Feed Dogs Function: Metal teeth that move the fabric forward or backward under the needle as stitches are made. Bobbin Function: Supplies the lower thread required to create a lockstitch. 5. Bobbin Case Function: Holds the bobbin in place and regulates the tension of the bobbin thread. Parts functions of single Needle machine

6. Thread Tension Mechanism Function: Controls the tightness or looseness of the top thread to ensure balanced stitches. 7. Stitch Selector Function: Allows the user to choose different stitch types, though basic single-needle machines typically focus on straight stitching. 8. Hand Wheel Function: Manually raises and lowers the needle, allowing precise control for starting and stopping. 9. Throat Plate Function: Flat metal plate with a slot for the needle to pass through, providing a smooth surface for fabric to glide over. 10. Spool Pin Function: Holds the spool of thread in place during sewing. 11. Foot Pedal Function: Controls the speed of the sewing machine via pressure applied by the user. 12. Reverse Lever Function: Engages reverse stitching to reinforce seams. 13. Take-Up Lever Function: Pulls the thread from the spool and feeds it through the needle for consistent stitching.

S I N G L E N E E D L E

A double-needle sewing machine is a specialized machine equipped with two needles that stitch simultaneously, creating two parallel rows of stitches. This machine is often used for decorative stitching, reinforcement, and hemming in garment production. Parts and Their Functions 1. Double Needles Function: Create two parallel lines of stitches simultaneously, enhancing durability and design. 2. Presser Foot Function: Holds the fabric in place while allowing space for both needles to pass through smoothly. 3. Feed Dogs Function: Move the fabric forward consistently, ensuring even spacing between the parallel stitches. 4. Bobbin and Bobbin Case Function: Supply the lower threads for the two lines of stitching, ensuring the stitches lock securely. 5. Needle Bar Function: Holds and moves the two needles in synchronization during stitching. Double needle machine

6. Thread Guides Function: Direct the two threads from their spools to the needles, preventing tangling and maintaining proper tension. 7. Thread Tension Discs Function: Adjust the tension of each thread individually for balanced and uniform stitches. 8. Throat Plate Function: Provides a smooth surface with slots for both needles, allowing them to pass through the fabric. 9. Stitch Length Selector Function: Allows adjustment of the distance between stitches in both rows. 10. Hand Wheel Function: Manually raises and lowers the needles for precise control during starting or stopping. 11. Reverse Lever Function: Enables reverse stitching to reinforce the twin rows of stitches. 12. Spool Pins Function: Hold the two separate thread spools needed for the double needles. 13. Take-Up Levers Function: Pull the threads from the spools and feed them through the needles for consistent stitching.

D O U B L E N E E D L E

An overlock machine, also known as a serger, is a sewing machine designed to sew over the edge of fabric to encase the raw edges, preventing fraying and giving a neat, professional finish. It is widely used in garment construction for hemming, seam finishing, and decorative stitching. Parts and Their Functions 1. Needles Function: Typically two needles work to create a strong seam while incorporating multiple threads into the stitch. 2. Loopers (Upper and Lower) Function: Carry the threads that loop around the edge of the fabric to form overlock stitches. 3. Presser Foot Function: Holds the fabric securely while the machine stitches and trims the edges. 4. Feed Dogs Function: Move the fabric through the machine, often with differential feed to manage stretch fabrics or prevent puckering. 5. Knife/Blade Function: Cuts the fabric edge cleanly as it stitches, ensuring a neat finish. Over lock machine

6. Thread Tension Dials Function: Control the tension of each thread (typically 3-5 threads) for balanced and professional-looking stitches. 7. Throat Plate Function: Provides a flat surface for the fabric to move over, with openings for the needles and loopers. 8. Stitch Width and Length Adjusters Function: Allow adjustment of the stitch width and length to suit the fabric and desired finish. 9. Thread Guides Function: Direct the threads from the spools to the needles and loopers, ensuring smooth operation. 10. Spool Pins Function: Hold the threads for the multiple spools required by the machine. 11. Differential Feed Knob Function: Adjusts the feed rate of the fabric to prevent puckering or stretching, especially in knits or delicate fabrics. 12. Foot Pedal Function: Controls the speed of the machine during operation. 13. Dust Tray Function: Collects the fabric trimmings cut by the knife for easy cleanup.

O V E R L O C K

Overlock machines are versatile and are commonly used for: - Finishing Seams: Overlock stitches provide a clean and finished edge to prevent fraying. - Creating Rolled Hems: Some overlock machines have settings for creating rolled hems on lightweight fabrics. - Sewing Knits: The differential feed mechanism makes overlock machines suitable for sewing stretchy knit fabrics. - Decorative Edging: Overlock machines can add decorative edges or seams to garments. Understanding the functions of these parts is essential for operating an overlock machine effectively and achieving professional results in sewing projects. Overlock machines are versatile and are commonly used for

Bar tacking machine, A bar-tacking machine is a specialized type of sewing machine designed for creating short, closely spaced stitches in specific areas of a garment or fabric. Bar-tacking is commonly used to reinforce stress points, such as pocket corners, belt loops, and areas where additional strength is needed. Here are the main parts and their functions in a typical bar-tacking machine: 1. Needle: - Function: The needle pierces the fabric to form stitches. 2. Needle Bar: - Function: Moves up and down, carrying the needle and creating stitches. 3. Needle Clamp: - Function: Holds the needle in place and facilitates its movement. Bar tacking machine

B A R T A C K

4. Thread Tension Mechanism: - Function: Regulates the tension of the thread to ensure even stitches. 5. Thread Guides: - Function: Guides the thread through various paths to maintain proper tension and prevent tangling. 6. Thread Spool: - Function: Holds the thread used for stitching.

7. Presser Foot: - Function: Holds the fabric in place against the feed dogs, ensuring even stitching. 8. Feed Dogs: - Function: Move the fabric forward and backward beneath the presser foot, aiding in even stitching. 9. Stitch Length Regulator: - Function: Adjusts the length of the stitches. 10. Bobbin Case: - Function: Holds the bobbin and regulates the tension of the lower thread. 11. Bobbin Winder: - Function: Winds thread onto the bobbin.

12. Waste Tray: - Function: Collects fabric trimmings and excess thread. 13. Tension Discs: - Function: Regulate the tension of the upper thread. 14. Thread Cutter: - Function: Cuts the thread after stitching. 15. Pattern Cam: - Function: Controls the stitching pattern or design. Bar-tacking machines may have specific cams for different patterns.

16. Pattern Adjuster: - Function: Allows for adjustments to the bar- tacking pattern, such as stitch width and length. 17. Stitch Density Adjuster: - Function: Adjusts the spacing and density of the stitches Bar-tacking machines are commonly used in industrial settings, especially in the production of garments and other sewn products. The reinforced stitches created by bar-tacking provide additional strength and durability to specific areas of the fabric, helping to prevent wear and tear over time.

A buttonhole making machine is a specialized sewing machine designed specifically for the automated creation of buttonholes. Buttonholes are openings in fabric that are reinforced to allow buttons to pass through, providing a closure for garments. Here are the main parts and their functions in a typical buttonhole making machine: 1. Needle: - Function: The needle pierces the fabric to create the initial hole for the buttonhole. 2. Buttonhole Blade: - Function: A sharp blade or knife that cuts the fabric to form the sides of the buttonhole. 3. Buttonhole Clamp or Holder: - Function: Holds the fabric in place during the buttonhole-making process. Button Hole making machine

BUTTON HOLE MAKING MACHINE

Button 4. Buttonhole Guide or Template: - Function: Provides a guide for the machine to follow, ensuring consistent and accurate buttonhole placement and size. 5. Thread Tension Mechanism: - Function: Regulates the tension of the thread to ensure even stitching. 6. Thread Guides: - Function: Guides the thread through various paths to maintain proper tension and prevent tangling.

7. Thread Spool: - Function: Holds the thread used for stitching. 8. Stitch Length Regulator: - Function: Adjusts the length of the stitches, determining the size of the buttonhole. 9. Bobbin Case: - Function: Holds the bobbin and regulates the tension of the lower thread. 10. Bobbin Winder: - Function: Winds thread onto the bobbin. 11. Waste Tray: - Function: Collects fabric trimmings and excess thread. 12. Foot Pedal: - Function: Controls the start and stop of the sewing machine, allowing the operator to control the sewing speed. 13. Control Panel: - Function: In more advanced buttonhole machines, a control panel may be present to input specific buttonhole dimensions or patterns. 14. Thread Cutter: - Function: Cuts the thread after stitching.

Buttonhole making machines can vary in complexity and features. Some may be simple and manually operated, while others are computerized and capable of creating various buttonhole styles and sizes with precision. These machines are commonly used in the garment industry and other textile-related fields to streamline the process of adding functional and aesthetically pleasing buttonholes to garments.

button fixing machine, A button fixing machine, also known as a button attaching machine, is a specialized piece of equipment designed for the automated attachment of buttons to fabrics. These machines streamline the button attachment process, ensuring consistent and efficient results. Here are the main parts and their functions in a typical button fixing machine: 1. Button Feeder: - Function: Holds and supplies buttons to the machine for attachment. 2. Needle: - Function: The needle pierces through the fabric and the buttonholes to attach the button securely. 3. Button Holder or Clamp: - Function: Holds the button in place during the attachment process. 4. Button Guide: - Function: Guides the button into the correct position for attachment. Button fixing machine,

BUTTON FIXING MACHINE

5. Thread Tension Mechanism: - Function: Regulates the tension of the thread to ensure even stitching. 6. Thread Guides: - Function: Guides the thread through various paths to maintain proper tension and prevent tangling. 7. Thread Spool: - Function: Holds the thread used for stitching. 8. Bobbin Case: - Function: Holds the bobbin and regulates the tension of the lower thread.

A blind stitching machine, also known as a blind hemming machine, is a specialized sewing machine designed for creating nearly invisible hems on fabrics. Blind stitching is a technique where the stitches are minimally visible on the fabric's right side, making it suitable for creating discreet and professional-looking hems. Here are the main parts and their functions in a typical blind stitching machine: 1. Needle: - Function: The needle pierces the fabric to create stitches, but the majority of the stitch is hidden within the fabric layers. 2. Needle Bar: - Function: Moves up and down, carrying the needle and creating stitches. 3. Needle Clamp: - Function: Holds the needle in place and facilitates its movement. 4. Thread Tension Mechanism: - Function: Regulates the tension of the thread to ensure even stitching. 5. Thread Guides: - Function: Guides the thread through various paths to maintain proper tension and prevent tangling. Blind stitching Machine

BLIND STITCH MACHINE

6. Thread Spool: - Function: Holds the thread used for stitching. 7. Presser Foot: - Function: Holds the fabric in place against the feed dogs, ensuring even stitching. 8. Feed Dogs: - Function: Move the fabric forward and backward beneath the presser foot, aiding in even stitching. 9. Stitch Length Regulator: - Function: Adjusts the length of the stitches.

- Function: Holds the bobbin and regulates the tension of the lower thread. 11. Bobbin Winder: - Function: Winds thread onto the bobbin. 12. Waste Tray: - Function: Collects fabric trimmings and excess thread. 13. Fold Guide or Hemming Guide: - Function: Guides the fabric to create the proper fold for a blind hem. 14. Adjustable Guide or Gauge: - Function: Allows for the adjustment of the hem width, ensuring the stitches remain hidden within the folded fabric. 15. Foot Pedal: - Function: Controls the start and stop of the sewing machine, allowing the operator to control the sewing speed. 16. Thread Cutter: - Function: Cuts the thread after stitching.

A fabric examining machine, also known as a fabric inspection machine or fabric examining table, is a specialized equipment designed for the visual inspection and examination of fabrics. It is commonly used in the textile industry to assess the quality, defects, and characteristics of fabrics before they are further processed or used in garment production. Here are the main components and functions typically associated with a fabric examining machine: 1. Inspection Table: - Function: Provides a flat and well-lit surface for laying out and examining fabrics. 2. Lighting System: - Function: Illuminates the fabric evenly, ensuring proper visibility for inspection. 3. Roller System or Conveyor: - Function: Allows the fabric to be rolled out smoothly for inspection, facilitating the examination process. 4. Tension Control Mechanism: - Function: Maintains consistent tension on the fabric during inspection, preventing distortion or stretching. 5. Fabric Alignment Guides: - Function: Helps align the fabric properly for a systematic examination. Fabric examining machine.

6. Magnifying Glass or Inspection Loupe: - Function: Enables inspectors to closely examine the fabric for fine details or defects. 7. Edge Sensor: - Function: Detects irregularities or inconsistencies at the edges of the fabric. 8. Defect Detection System: - Function: Automated systems may include cameras or sensors to detect and highlight defects, such as stains, holes, or weaving irregularities. 9. Measuring Scale or Grid: - Function: A marked scale or grid on the table helps assess dimensions, patterns, or print alignments 10. Control Panel: - Function: Allows the operator to adjust lighting conditions, control conveyor speed, and activate any automated defect detection systems. 11. Roll-to-Roll System (Optional): - Function: Some fabric examining machines are integrated with a roll-to-roll system, allowing continuous inspection of fabrics on rolls. 12. Fabric Accumulator or Inspection Board (Optional): - Function: Allows fabric sections to be accumulated for closer examination without interrupting the inspection process. Fabric examining machines play a crucial role in quality control, ensuring that fabrics meet the required standards before they are cut and sewn into garments or other textile products.

Special attachments, Special attachments for sewing machines are additional components or devices that can be added to a sewing machine to extend its functionality or enable it to perform specific tasks. These attachments enhance the versatility of the sewing machine, allowing it to handle a broader range of sewing projects. Here are some common special attachments: 1. Walking Foot: - Function: A walking foot attachment is used for sewing multiple layers of fabric or slippery materials. It ensures even feeding of the fabric layers to prevent shifting. 2. Quilting Guide: - Function: Attaches to the presser foot and helps maintain even spacing when quilting. It is useful for creating straight or parallel lines of stitching. 3. Free-Motion Quilting Foot: - Function: Enables free-motion quilting by allowing the fabric to be moved freely in any direction. It's ideal for creating intricate quilting designs. 4. Embroidery Attachment: - Function: Attaches to the sewing machine to convert it into an embroidery machine. It allows for the precise stitching of intricate designs. 5. Buttonhole Attachment: - Function: Used for creating consistent and accurate buttonholes. It may include multiple templates for various buttonhole sizes. 6. Hemming Foot: - Function: Facilitates the creation of narrow hems, making it easier to achieve professional-looking finishes on garments Special attachments

7. Ruffler Attachment: - Function: Creates evenly spaced pleats or gathers in fabric. It's commonly used for decorative or functional purposes. 8. Edge Stitching Foot: - Function: Helps sew along the edges of fabric with precision. It is useful for topstitching or edge stitching. 9. Bias Binding Foot: - Function: Attaches bias tape or binding to fabric edges with ease, providing a clean and professional finish. 10. Zipper Foot: - Function: Specifically designed for sewing close to zippers, enabling precise stitching when attaching or inserting zippers. 11. Cording Foot: - Function: Adds decorative cord or piping to seams. The foot guides the cord for even stitching.